Every fashion editor has that one runway show they look forward to more than any other. For me, it’s always Schiaparelli. Twice a year, the Paris Couture Week serves as the stage for the brand’s new creations, and I eagerly pore over each piece, discussing with my partner which ones we would splurge on if we ever decided to tie the knot (we’re still dreaming about that stunning gown from the Spring 2023 collection). But this time, Schiaparelli’s latest haute couture collection did something that made me fall even deeper in love: they brought black lipstick back to the runway—and it’s about time.
Schiaparelli’s runway shows are usually known for their “no-makeup” makeup looks, with occasional pops of red lipstick or the infamous “chandelier face” moment from the Spring 2024 collection. But this season, the house broke from tradition, embracing a bold new aesthetic with nearly every model rocking a glossy, inky black lip. Four models even wore red lipstick, adding an unexpected pop of color amidst the gothic vibe. It was a daring, unexpected move, but one that paid off. The creative mastermind behind this transformation? Schiaparelli’s long-time makeup muse, the legendary Dame Pat McGrath, who used her brand’s new PermaGel Eye Pencil in Xtreme Black to perfect the goth-inspired lip look.
Black lipstick has had a tumultuous history. Since the 1980s, it’s been associated with goths, punks, and glam rockers. While iconic fashion houses like Valentino, Marc Jacobs, Thierry Mugler, and Chanel have occasionally flirted with dark lipstick, it’s never truly broken into the mainstream in the way that other makeup trends have. Even at its peak, black lipstick has always been a marker of those who dare to stand out—the "little freaks" like me, who didn’t mind being a little different.
Before becoming a fashion editor, I was the only emo kid in my small high school, proudly rocking black eyeshadow as my signature look. It was my statement—my way of defining myself in a world that often made me feel like an outsider. Despite the teasing and disapproving stares from my tiny hometown of 1,700 people, that dark pigment in my makeup became a quiet affirmation of my identity, even though I didn’t quite understand its full significance back then.
As I grew older and started exploring my sexuality, my "alt-girl" aesthetic made a return. It resurfaced in the form of Kylie Jenner’s “Dead of Knight” Lip Kit, and for the first time, I felt able to express myself without fear of ridicule. I swiped on that black lipstick, and something in me clicked—I never looked back.
Today, as a fashion editor and proud bisexual woman, I still find myself reaching for my tube of KVD Beauty’s Everlasting Hyperlight Transfer-Proof Liquid Lipstick. It gives me the same sense of freedom and authenticity that those black eyeshadows once did. No other beauty product makes me feel as truly “me” as that bold black lip.
Even in a field as inclusive and diverse as fashion, the fear of judgment still lingers. The industry, often obsessed with high glamour and perfect images, sometimes makes me feel like I don’t belong. But seeing black lipstick—something that’s long been associated with outsider culture—celebrated on the runway by one of fashion’s most renowned houses, gave me a validation I never got as a teenager. It was a reminder to my younger self, the girl who was laughed at in the halls, that I, too, belong here. Black lipstick and all.
Fashion, at its best, champions individuality. Yet for many of us, that journey toward discovering and embracing our true selves is often tied to deeper questions of identity—be it gender, sexual orientation, or just personal style. And that’s what makes Schiaparelli’s embrace of black lipstick so powerful. It’s not just about a trend; it’s about celebrating uniqueness, about finding beauty in the things that set us apart.
Black lipstick is no longer just a symbol of rebellion—it’s a celebration of individuality. With Schiaparelli’s bold display of gothic glam, that once-rebellious beauty trend has found its place at the forefront of fashion. And for all of us who have ever felt like outsiders, it’s a reminder that we too deserve to be seen, to be celebrated, and yes, to wear that black lipstick with pride.