In the world of watch collecting, “Swiss Made” has long been synonymous with precision, luxury, and heritage. From Rolex to Patek Philippe, Swiss brands have dominated the narrative. But while the Alps have cast a long horological shadow, a quiet but determined revival is underway across the Atlantic.
This isn’t America’s first foray into fine watchmaking. In the 19th century, the United States was a global leader in horology. Companies like the Waltham Watch Company pioneered mass production with interchangeable parts, setting new standards for efficiency and accuracy. Brands like Elgin and Hamilton further fueled this golden era, especially in the railroad and military sectors. But after World War II, the tides shifted—Swiss prestige grew, Japan’s Seiko and Citizen undercut on price with quartz movements, and America’s dominance quietly faded.
Fast-forward to the present day, and a new generation of American watchmakers is reimagining what “Made in USA” can mean in luxury watchmaking.
In 2018, Josh Shapiro—a former history teacher and school coach—founded his eponymous brand, J.N. Shapiro, in California. His journey into watchmaking wasn’t a straight line. Growing up in a machine shop instilled an early appreciation for craftsmanship, and he first entered the field by making guilloché (engine-turned) dials for other brands. Eventually, he launched his own line, starting with the Infinity series.
Today, his new Infinity Pure model retails for $26,000—a relatively modest price compared to six-figure Swiss timepieces, but every bit as thoughtfully crafted. The watches feature Shapiro’s signature Infinity weave guilloché, all hand-cut, surrounded by hand-polished hands and a brushed steel chapter ring. Perhaps most remarkably, these are true American-made luxury watches, crafted entirely in California.
“The biggest challenge is the 'Made in the USA' label,” Shapiro explains. “In Switzerland, brands can import components from Asia and still qualify as Swiss Made. We don’t have that luxury.” This commitment to domestic production means building an entire supply chain almost from scratch. But he’s undeterred. His newest pieces—now offered in a smaller, collector-favored 37mm size—show just how tuned-in he is to market tastes. “That size just feels right, personally and professionally,” he adds.
Across the country in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, RGM Watches is writing its own chapter in American horology. Founded in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy—a WOSTEP-trained master watchmaker—RGM has become a quiet giant in the American independent scene. Murphy doesn’t shy away from the big stuff: his Pennsylvania Tourbillon, priced at $125,000, is the only serially-produced tourbillon with an in-house movement made in North America.
“Our clients come to us because we’re an American brand,” Murphy says. While he sources some parts from Europe, the design, movement finishing, and assembly all happen in-house. “I think the future of American watchmaking will be boutique and artisanal. We won’t return to industrial scale like the old days, but we’ll offer something you can’t find anywhere else.”
In February 2025, RGM released the 801/40-CE, a refined 40.3mm watch powered by the brand’s in-house Calibre 801. Slim at just 10.5mm, the watch features a hand-finished grand feu enamel dial and traditional manually wound movement. “Our customers wanted a smaller watch with our movement, so we designed the smallest case we could,” Murphy says.
Back in Chicago, collector-turned-founder John Warren is reviving a forgotten 19th-century name: Cornell Watch Company. Originally founded in 1870, the brand was short-lived due to the Great Chicago Fire and financial hardship. But in 2024, Warren partnered with Roland Murphy to create the Cornell 1870 C.E., a limited-production timepiece inspired by vintage railroad pocket watches.
This year, Warren launched the Lozier, a minimalist, full-production follow-up that continues Cornell’s resurrection. “People think manufacturing in the U.S. is more expensive, but that’s not the real issue,” says Warren. “High-precision craftsmanship costs money no matter where you do it. What matters is whether you’re willing to cut corners—we’re not.”
Inspired by Cornell’s original aesthetic and Chicago’s Art Deco architecture, the Lozier is understated yet elegant. Its frosted German silver dial features a three-step layout, polished leaf hands, and bespoke “Chicago Roman” numerals designed by London-based typographer Samuel Baker. While the movement is Swiss-made (a Sellita SW300), the case, dial, hands, and crown are all manufactured in Ohio using five-axis CNC machines by Swiss-trained machinists.
One recent buyer, Matthew, a Los Angeles-based architect, stumbled upon the Infinity Pure in a boutique while traveling in Europe. “It wasn’t in the main display case with the big names,” he recalls. “But something about that dial grabbed me. I went back to the hotel, read Josh Shapiro’s story, and the next day, I bought it.”
From classroom to workshop, from forgotten brand to artisan rebirth, these makers are redefining what American luxury means. They don’t have the centuries-old prestige or the deep manufacturing ecosystems of Switzerland—but they have something just as valuable: vision, craft, and conviction.
Swiss watches may always dominate the headlines. But one hand-polished hour marker at a time, American horology is quietly making its way back into the spotlight.